OK having done my fair share of laser replacements over the years, I thought it might be an idea to have a supplier list of who is selling good ones and who is selling crap ones, and what aftercare there was if any, maybe their refund policies.
I intended to write a buyers guide and would hope that any people whom have had to replace theirs could maybe update this thread with their supplier experiences.
This thread might go nowhere, but on every repair we do it is essential to have a good supplier who ain`t gonna supply you with rubbish, and looking on eBay, it can be daunting to buy one and worry if it is going to work when it gets here.
I may reserve a post for doing a replacement guide if it is a good idea.
I didn`t want it to be an advertising thread, but just somewhere someone could come to so they don`t buy rubbish.
Funny things dem lasers...
I`ll make a start...
I get all my lasers from two places that seem connected to each other. Near to me and a decent warranty. Not the cheapest but I haven`t had a dead one yet.
Same firm by all accounts but seem good. Had KES 400s and 450s from them. Can`t vouch for the 410s as I not had any. Will be trying other suppliers in the future.
OK so you are here because your games are not loading correctly... Suspecting your laser is at fault?
Load times increased
Discs not being recognised on the XMB
Clunking inside the drive randomly
DVDs reading / Blurays not reading etc on same drive?
All these are symptoms of the laser diode failing inside your drive. The reasons these fail can be varied. Impact damage / Dust / Static damage or just plain old wear and tear.
What actually fails is this part with the 5 solder points on it... SDC12839.jpg
Sadly, you cannot successfully replace this part without getting the 100% the right one (something to do with wavelengths & voltages), and if you buy acheap reconditioned one, it will probably fail early due to the replacement diode being the wrong type fitted.
It is always better to get NEW lasers and paying a bit more for them and getting a decent warranty with them. eBay is the main place to go. Buyer beware and check feedback etc to make sure they are not dodgy :P
Anyway, without much more blabbering on, here we go...
We will cover each individual drive / laser assembly.
The three types of laser are as follows...
KES 400, KES 410 and KES 450.
The 450 is ONLY FITTED TO SLIMS. IF YOUR LASER IN YOUR SLIM HAS FAILED, YOU NEED A KES 450A
The fats can be a little more complicated...
The KES 400a is used in all models from launch to Aug/Sept 2007, with all remaining consoles (up until the slim was released) being fitted with 410a model laser.
As a rule, if you put your disc in and it feeds straight in without rotating while it is entering the machine, you have a KES-400a.
If it DOES rotate then you have a KES-410a.
Easy as...
PREREQUISITES - KES - 400A/410A
FAT PS3...
Tools needed...
1 x T10H Security bit
1 x Phillips screwdriver
1 x Small Phillips screwdriver (PH00 mine says on it)
2 x Cotton buds
1 x small flat blade screwdriver
1 x Roll of sellotape
Stripping down the PS3...
Clean all exterior dust from machine using a soft cloth that wont generate static. Eject all discs.
IMPORTANT: We need to ground ourselves somehow throughout the procedure so we do not damage any components, especially the new laser with ESD (Static electricity). Handling a laser without grounding yourself can fry the diode before you fit the assembly!
I recommend sit with your knee touching a radiator or something else grounded, or using a proper earth strap.
In absence of these, you can leave the PS3 plugged into the mains power supply, but with the power TURNED OFF. Switch off at the wall, and switch off at the back. The unit will then be earthed via the house electricity cables. PLEASE USE COMMON SENSE AND MAKE CERTAIN THAT POWER TO THE UNIT IS OFF!!! Look elsewhere on ESD precautions please!
1) Remove the warranty sticker and rubber gromet at the side of the machine. Now use your T10H bit to remove the Torx headed screw from inside the hole. SDC12851.jpg
2) Slide the top cover to your left... SDC12852.jpg
4) Lift up cover from the back of the unit after freeing the tang, the cover will lift up as shown... Do not force it up from the front SDC12856.jpgSDC12857.jpg
5) this now leaves the PS3 exposed as far as we need. Now we need to strip out the drive...
6) Disconnect grey power cable as shown... Lever on the plug gently with a screwdriver if it is being a bitch. They are pretty tough cables. SDC12859.jpg
7) Lift the drive up from the front and lift the black clip on the bottom of the drive to disconnect the ribbon cable going to the motherboard. SDC12860.jpgSDC12861.jpg
8) Now we have the drive free from the main console, so put everything you have taken off in a safe place somewhere and move the main console out of the way, ideally somewhere where there is no dust / kids / dogs / girlfriends.
9) Now we are going to start dismantling the drive...
11 ) Flip the drive over and we need to remove 7 screws with our small pozidrive... 2 at the back (keep the spring support somewhere safe), 3 at the front on the logic board and 2 at the rear of the logic board. Release the cables going to the logic board, being especially careful with the yellow optical disc sensor plug. Lever this connector very gently as shown. The logic board can now be put out of harms way. SDC12871.jpgSDC12877.jpgSDC12878.jpg
12) NOT ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY IF YOU HAVE ALREADY REMOVED YELLOW PLUG...Now we can remove the optical disc sensor from the top of the drive. Remove the screw holding it on the drive, remove the little white stickers holding the cable onto the drive. Gently lever the yellow plug from the logic board SDC12866.jpg
OPTIONAL... Clean the optical sensor with a cotton bud so it is nice and clean
13) Now the top cover is free. Flip the drive back over. We need to GENTLY ease the front of the top cover over the drive by bending it carefully outward so the cover clears the assembly. Careful when removing it and lift it off gently from the back and the front. You SHOULDNT need to use any levering tools. Put top cover and screws to one side. Remove the bottom cover too which is now free too... SDC12865.jpgSDC12879.jpg
14) Now we need to remove the black top cover from the drive. Remove the 5 screws as shown, then gently lift the cover off SDC12874.jpgSDC12876.jpg
15 The drive is now exposed and we can see the laser...Nearly there!!! Now we need to remove the deck. Remove the ribbon cable to the laser by releasing the black clip SDC12880.jpg
16) Remove 4 screws holding the deck to the unit... SDC12882.jpg
17) Unclip the black connector going to the spindle ribbon cable
20) With deck in hand and you being properly earthed, undo the two screws at the top that the rods sit on, but make careful note how far the threads are sticking out on the other side. SDC12885.jpgSDC12886.jpg
21) Unscrew the two spring rod retainers that are held on to the deck with black screw as shown SDC12889.jpgSDC12890.jpg
22) Slide out the two rods without bending them. Note how the one nearest to us goes over the metal tang on the laser assembly.
23) Clean the rods, and ideally, lightly regrease with some white lithium grease. Not too much, just a dab on the middle of the rods and some on the brass corkscrew.
24) Unscrew the screw that holds the white clip to the laser. SDC12898.jpg
25) Get new laser in hand WHILE EARTHING YOURSELF> Do NOT touch the actual diode we looked at right at the start under any circumstances.
26) Screw the white clip that you removed onto the new laser.
27) Offer the laser to the deck by placing it in the middle. Ensure that the white clip engages with the spiral thread
28) Slide a rod through the holes and while lifting the spring as shown, push the rod fully home. SDC12901.jpg
29) Do the same with the other side remembering that the rod goes OVER THE TOP of the metal tang and under the T shaped white piece of plastic as shown SDC12905.jpg
30) Refit the spring rod retainers ensuring they are sat on the little metal dowels. Screw them back on
31) turn the deck over and refit the small screws that we removed, remembering roughly where they were before we removed them (how much thread is exposed)
32 Refit the deck reversal of removal, offering it back to the drive, then fitting the spindle motor ribbon cable. Take care that the brown ribbon cable is free and not trapped under the drive!!! Route brown cable back through its guides. Screw it together with the four screws ensureing you do not pinch the rubber bushes.
33) Refit laser ribbon cable - ensure laser is moving freely and smoothly on the guides.
34) Refit black top of drive using the 5 screws, then refit the optical sensor using some fresh tape if needed to hold the wires down (the white labels will probably be ok)
35) Put bottom cover in place without trapping any ribbon cables, ensuring that it goes on from the back first (make sure it is seated correctly), then put logic board over its plastic dowels and screw it to the bottom cover using two of the black screws SDC12906.jpg
36) Refit all ribbon cables making sure that they are perfectly pushed all the way home and they are even... SDC12910.jpg
37) I normally test the drive now by refitting it into the console and checking to see if disc is recognised. Sometimes, the disc can mis-feed and occasionally, you need to loosen the black drive cover and fiddle with the disc until the drive machanics realign themselves.
This can mostly be avoided by fully reassembling the ps3, offering a disc to the ps3 slot, and pushing it in just enough to activate the mechanism that draws the disc in but do not put the disc in! If the mechanism isn`t taking the disc correctly, remove the 5 screws again being careful of the optical sensor, retrieve disc and try again.
38) Once happy that all is well, remove drive from ps3 and refit top cover, from the back first and refit screws as we removewd them. Refer to earlier pics if necessary.
39) Refit drive to PS3 for final time, ensuring no cables are trapped
40) Refit top cover noting that the front tangs / clips need to be slotted in first. Double check the cover is clicked down before refitting all screws. Lift SD card cover to ensure that nothing is trapped or damaged (if fitted).
41) Refit top sliding cover, reversal of removal
42) Refit tamperproof screw and rubber gromet...
43) Test finally and finito!!!
If I have missed out anything please let me know. Also could a moderator prettly please merge this with the other post or place it underneath? So gravox`s post is moved underneath? No biggie at all.
Many thanks hope it helps somebody I think these instructions apply to the 410A pretty much too. Not having done any I can`t vouch for that.
KES-450A to follow...
Feedback good/bad welcomed. Oh BTW... Camera sucks old sweaty balls. Sorry they are blurred pictures
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